Ethiopia: they know it’s Christmas

There is a mysteriousness about Ethiopia that’s captivating. Perhaps it’s the constant, slightly eerie hum of Orthodox prayers, or the white-shawled women prostrating for hours on end. Perhaps it’s the fact that every face is so completely different, or the Muezzin call to the 40% Muslim population. The incense-filled daily coffee ceremony and the ritualistic devotion to Injera (spongey pancake type bread – not actually a fan) and Wat (the many dishes piled onto the Injera) – add to a sense of timelessness and magic.

Coffee time

Me and wat not

I can report to Bob Geldof that they know Christmas is approaching, even if it’s on 7 January (it’s also the year 2012 and New Year is in September – and don’t even ask me about the Ethiopian clock…). Everyone is fasting and praying militantly – I’m told they will all get hammered on honey wine and will eat their weight in lamb come the 7^th.

Simien mountain hiking

After 2 days acclimatising in Addis (nothing special, a typical African city where matatus share highways with goats, donkeys and government limousines), I flew to Gondar in the North. A short stopover and then a long drive into the Simien mountains to start 3 days hiking and camping (with a group of mainly Dutch and French).

Being up at 4800m, I struggled with the thin air, feeling constantly breathless and dizzy (nothing to do with my shameful lack of fitness, ahem). In my little tent at minus 8, breathing at night was the worst. I’m afraid by day 3 I was sobbing with exhaustion. BUT, despite all this it was truly spectacular hiking – massive drop-offs to our left with arid mountains extending as far as they eye could see into Eritrea. On our right, rolling barley fields, eucalyptus and rondavel villages – everyone doing their bit, donkeys included, to gather in the harvest. There were also a lot of laughs with the Dutch (who live in Nairobi) – it seems we share the same sarcastic and rude sense of humour.

En-route to mountains

Gelada baboon - so lovely to watch

Churches galore

I’m now in Lalibela – home to the famous churches dug into the ground. But I’m afraid rather than marvelling at one of UNESCO’s greatest wonders of the world, I am simply luxuriating with a flushing toilet and a bed without lice.

Luxury at last

Some things I’ve learned about this fascinatingly complex country:

• It miraculously escaped colonisation (defeating the Italians twice) – many Ethiopians I meet talk about the ‘winning spirit’ which they say is behind their success as runners (plus the obvious altitude)
• Haile Selassie was also Ras Tafari and thus worshipped as much in Jamaica as here
• The Ark of the Covenant (containing 10 commandments) is supposedly in Aksum
• Adebe Bikila was the first black African to win Olympic gold in the marathon in 1960 – barefoot!
• Ethiopians greet by bumping shoulders, older people tap the side of their heads together
• Around 15% of children are orphaned due to HIV (I was amazed as it feels Africa has got a grip on the disease but because of all the religious superstitions, it’s still rife here)
• Ethiopians believe twins are a curse (better not bring F&A here Bec!)

         
Speaking to Ethiopians I meet (one thing about travelling alone is that people seem to find me intriguing so like to chat), sadly it seems that, among the 80 ethnic groups that have lived in relative harmony throughout history (the government never fabricating archetypes for each group as was the case in Rwanda), tensions are now flaring up. The new PM is popular and well-intentioned but the entrenched system of ethno-nationalisms is stirring up conflict. There are no-go areas in the south and people are even talking about the potential for ‘a Rwanda’.


On that jolly note, I’m off for some retail therapy…though never particularly therapeutic as a single blonde female in an African market. Lots of love xxx

Health and safety Africa style